Adventure classic 'Annapurna' details first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak

I recently finished reading a really cool, older book called “Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8,000-meter Peak” by French mountaineer, Maurice Herzog.

First published in 1952 by E.P. Dutton & Co., this book details a 1950 mountaineering expedition led by Herzog that aimed to become the first to successfully summit an 8,000-meter peak. (Eight thousand meters is just a few feet shy of five miles.)

The book takes its title from the name of the mountain Herzog and company chose to climb. Located in the Himalayas of Nepal, Annapurna is 26,545 feet tall and is the tenth highest mountain in the world. It’s generally considered to be one of the most dangerous mountains in the world to climb. Despite poor maps, no supplemental oxygen and bad weather, Herzog and his partner Louis Lachenal reached the peak on June 3, 1950.

Herzog and Lachenal nearly died on their way back down the mountain. They lost several pieces of essential equipment, suffered frostbite and snow blindness and survived an avalanche. In fact, Herzog, who is still alive today at the ripe old age of 93, lost most of his fingers on the way down the mountain and had to dictate the book to an assistant for publication.

Herzog’s book became a huge bestseller and most sources consider it to be the most influential mountaineering book ever written. According to the New York Times, the book had sold over 11 million copies as of 2000.

I lucked up and found a 1953 hardback edition of the book at Macomb Mall in Monroeville, Ala. It cost me $3. I believe that the volume I have is the Book-of-the-Month Club edition of the book, but I’m not sure because the original, paper jacket is missing. The original hard covers are still in intact and are in fine shape.

“Annapurna” was translated from the original French version by Nea Morin and Janet Adam Smith. Maps and photographs in the book were by Marcel Ichac, who served as the expedition’s official photographer. The book also contains an introduction by British mountaineer Eric Shipton.

I enjoyed “Annapurna” for a number of reasons. It was interesting to read how Herzog and his colleagues planned for the expedition, dealt with the natives in Nepal and explored the Himalayas. The book also provides us with a fine example of physical and mental toughness as well as what people are capable of when they are resolved not to fail.

I’ve wanted to read “Annapurna” ever since National Geographic listed it as No. 5 on its “100 Best Adventure Books” list, which was released in May 2004. Since then, I’ve seen the book included on a number of recommended reading lists. When The Art of Manliness website released its “Essential Adventure Library: 50 Nonfiction Adventure Books” list, they listed “Annapurna” at No. 31. “Annapurna” is also one of 13 books in the Easton Press’ “Greatest Adventure Books of All Time” series.

In the end, how many of you have had the chance to read this book? What did you think about it? Did you like it or dislike it? Why? Do you know of any other mountaineering or adventure titles that you’d recommend? Let us know in the comments section below.